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  1. #1
    Generic Member The Error Guy's Avatar
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    Default Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    Me and some mates at school are restoring(ish) a c 1950-1960 Morris 1000 Series 2, We got the engine running today and took it for a spin. One problem is that all the brake pistons are seized. We bled the brake system so we know at least the front 2x pistons can get oil (no blockages) and we have concluded that it is most likely a set of 8x seized pistons (might be less I seem to recall there is only 1x piston on the back wheels)

    I was just wondering what would be the best way to free them up, we got the drums off fine, the pistons are stuck closed. I would guess brake kleen and some hammer action?

    All in all the engine runs ok for 30 years stationary. Pretty sloppy in power though, compression is probably terrible and it sounds like a lawnmower. We had the muffler off but the staff around the school weren't too impressed having no brakes can make the ring road a bit hairy, good thing the horn works and people kinda got the idea about blue Morris = get the hell out

    Anyway, about the brakes, ideas?

    Thanks

    TEG + and team
    The Master Of Deception


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  2. #2
    Junior Member SP8's's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    You're probably going to have to take the brake cylinders off the car ... the pistons will be rusted inside the cylinder bore. If the hydraulic pressure of the actual brakes wont shift them ... don't think you're going to have much luck when they're still on the car. Take them off and put them in a vice ... hit the piston back into the cylinder, using a piece of wood (dowel or piece of broom handle) between the piston & hammer so as not to damage piston. Alternately, take the brake shoes off and use a BIG flat head screwdriver and try to loosen the piston by rotating it. (put the screwdriver in the piston slot where the brake shoes slot into.

    I still have a funny feeling that you'll need to get the pistons out, hone the cylinders and replace the seals ... no quick way around it. If the pistons are really badly rusted (pitted) ... you might end up having to get replacements or have them sleeved.

  3. #3
    Soaring like a chicken prefect's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    If they are frozen it will mean they are rusted up and there will be pitting in the bore. Need to take the wheel cylinders off and immerse them in diesel for a few days then try twist and smack one of the pistons out. The cylinders will have to be resleeved and new seals fitted. If you dont the wheel cylinders will leak and wreck the brake shoes.
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  4. #4
    Generic Member The Error Guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    So probably easier to get new cylinders? Anyone know where to get them from?

    Probably better ask a bunch of web mechanics for specifics, still no harm in trying. Will give it a shot tomorrow before my maths exam
    The Master Of Deception


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  5. #5
    pcsourcepoint
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    Try a brake shop for the cylinders and shoes, or re-bonding if required. Or ebay (UK), bound to have some.
    Another, perhaps less common way brakes can seize, though usually temporarily, if there is inner peeling/delamination in rubber hoses near the brakes. Acts I think, like a one way temporary valve, causing seizure when brakes are applied, but after a while fluid pressure is slowly released. Bit puzzling, but I found out a while back, when we dissected a inner deteriorated hose.
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    If it's an old Morris get the front suspension checked. I remember them breaking something. I was following one once and it just tucked the left front wheel under and rolled while going in a straight line.

  7. #7
    Crossmember feersumendjinn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    The front shock absorbers are lever action and are bolted to a crossmember at the bulkhead/firewall (at rear of engine bay), the bolts are too small for the job and work loose and snap off (or break out of the crossmember); also the strut has screw threads top and bottom which act as kingpins, if these haven't been greased regularly, they will strip the threads and fall out.

    The brake master cylinder is under a panel in the floor (sits in water/rust and assorted crap) and will probably need servicing also (by the way you must use brake fluid not oil,
    front 2x pistons can get oil
    oil will rot all the seals and hoses, and make them swell (stuff them in other words)).
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  8. #8
    Smiling Down On Youse SurferJoe46's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    Quote Originally Posted by The Error Guy View Post
    <yadda, yadda> One problem is that all the brake pistons are seized. We bled the brake system so we know at least the front 2x pistons can get oil (no blockages) and we have concluded that it is most likely a set of 8x seized pistons (might be less I seem to recall there is only 1x piston on the back wheels)

    <MORE yadda, yadda>

    Anyway, about the brakes, ideas?
    The BOLD part really stopped me right where I stand. Hopefully you said 'oil' and really meant: 'brake fluid' - wot?

    OIL DOES NOT GO INTO THE BRAKE SYSTEM AND IT WILL SWELL THE RUBBER PARTS AND THEY WILL SEIZE SOMEWHAT LIKE YOU HAVE DESCRIBED.

    If you did put oil in it - you've ruined all the rubber parts and that includes any flex-lines, piston seals, master cylinder seals and if it got into the power brake booster (if it even HAS one) - then it's ruined too.

    I use the 'ruin' word and I hope so effectively. Once oil gets on any rubber brake part it is RUINED.


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  9. #9
    Soaring like a chicken prefect's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    Probaly cheaper to resleeve them, any machine shop can do it. They can use brass or stainless steel. When you bleed brakes on this what ever you dont press the pedal any more than half way otherwise you will have to overhaul the master cylinder which is as said before is in a ***** of a place in the right hand side chassis rail.
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  10. #10
    Generic Member The Error Guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Seized Brakes, Morris 1000

    Yep, meaning to say brake fluid rather than oil. Using DOT4.

    Today we'll try getting the brake pistons out and freeing them up, I know the master cylinder is a right b*** to get out, its wedged in under the chassis. before we put new brake fluid (not oil ) in I wanted to take it out and check all the seals an unions but no one could be bothered getting the little bugger out.

    How much do you think a resleeving would be?

    The front hydraulic dampers are in an ok condition, all the hydraulic fluid has been removed to clean them up. We'll look into a replacement system or strengthening.
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