View Full Version : OT: Question for the car mechanic.

22-09-2003, 06:28 PM

This is totally non-computing related. Hopefully some are car enthusiasts or even mechanics.

Ok. The car works fine. Its a 1.3L auto, relatives sedan - Mazda. What happen is that when it starts off first thing is ... it tries to stall when it reverses down a slight down slope. Then when I drive a 1/4 a minute and i take off which is a v slight sloped up .. it tries to stall, then after 15seconds it kicks in and works fine.

When it stalls, when the gas is pressed there is no action, 15 seconds then it works. Occasionally sometimes it does lose ignition. Say it tried to stall then it kicks in, I go to the shop, then drive back it does not stall until I leave the car for an extended period of time then it will stall again...

What can it be? Each time I take it for WoF, its fine and no work needs to be done. Could it be the fuel filter needing a swap?

~~ 1994 make or so..


22-09-2003, 06:42 PM
I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like there is a problem with the petrol going from the tank to the engine. Dud fuel pump maybe? You could be right about the fuel filter, although I can't see that having the effect that its having unless its blocked or something.

22-09-2003, 06:45 PM
Could be any number of things all related to the fuel system. Blocked filters, carburetta jets, blocked pipes, float chamber,fuel pump, and the list goes on,
Get someone who is reasonably mechanical to work through the pipes and narrow the search. If it comes down to the carb dont touch it. Take it to a garage. Wouldnt be a bad idea to check the spark plugs and HT leads.

22-09-2003, 06:58 PM
A 94 model could be fuel injected, which complicates it even further.

Fuel filters would be high on the list though.

22-09-2003, 07:05 PM
sounds like the choke not working right. without knowing what year and model car it is its hard to tell. could be stuck thermostat tho i've had problems with the choke flap lever on some models.

22-09-2003, 07:14 PM
we recently had similar probs, but not actually stalling and it was due to oil pressure as it had not got high enough for things to run smoothly enough for forward / back ward movement.... have to let run slightly longer maybe? as we do now after it being sent to have a service.... been told this problem only gets worse with time.

so my suggestion would be let it warm up a little longer and if pos park on level so oil / fuel does not run to one end of tank or engine part.

may be way off base but no harm done .... means no fiddling with things you dont know about.


22-09-2003, 07:28 PM
I'm with Tweak'e. Sounds like a choke issue. Does it have manual or auto choke? Could be spark plugs - how long since they were reset or replaced?

Susan B
22-09-2003, 07:46 PM
> without knowing what year and model car it is its hard to tell.

Wakey wakey...... ;-)

Its a 1.3L auto, relatives sedan - Mazda.

~~ 1994 make or so..

22-09-2003, 08:14 PM
susan! what are you doing on the net....get back to those......... ;-)

which year? 1994ish is not that exact.

what model? mazda have heaps of models eg 323, 626, mx5 etc.

also details on car (carby, fuel injected, import, nz new) do help.

sam m
22-09-2003, 09:08 PM
Have to agree with fuel being the culprit. Previous advice about fuel filter would be the quickest and easiest to change, especially if it is carburetter, if injected then leave for the experts.

Another suggestion would be to check the winter/summer airflow flap on the air filter (can't remember if that model has one) so check if it is set to winter for now to see if that makes a difference.

sam m

22-09-2003, 09:08 PM
thanks for the help guys.
1992 Mazda Familia 1.3L auto 4 dr sedan. Those compact style ones..

NZ new - not sure, too long since it was bought. From turners at 1996. It does say CLAIR on the side thou, next to the side indicator lights. What sure what that means. Spark plugs changed 2 yr or so.. oil change, oil filter done recently, what is a choke?? fuel filter not been a while i believe. Uses Shell unleaded 96.

Rarely, it would not stall at all. These were noticeably warmer days/mornings.... I will try to find some more info tomorrow morning.

22-09-2003, 09:10 PM
air filter, well I don't have a clue about that. I know what it is. Winter/summer selector - doubt the car is fancy enof to have that...


22-09-2003, 09:12 PM
Its not NZ new, I remember we were negotiating a deal with the seller via Turners Auctions..

22-09-2003, 09:23 PM
Has it been doing this for a while? Could be a carby with auto choke that needs a good boot of throttle before starting. It runs bad until it gets down the road and warms up a bit.

22-09-2003, 11:17 PM
I'm with Tweak but you don't state as to if it is a manual or auto choke.
My mother once had a little Datty 1200 with an autochoke which was misbehaving. Three times she took it in and the mechanic said there wasn't anything wrong with it. The next time my father went in to and they took the keys for the night. The next day the mechanic couldn't even get the car to start and had to admit that there was a fault with it.

22-09-2003, 11:22 PM
Susan B these days with cars you need to be quite precise and even need to quote the Vin or engine number for some things. It is like a PC the more info you give the better the advice will be.

22-09-2003, 11:32 PM
> I'm with Tweak but you don't state as to if it is a
> manual or auto choke.

I would be surprised if it wasn't fuel injected, in which case it hasn't got a "choke"
As its an import by the sound of the odd model name on the side, it could be any type of fuel system, but my experience of Mazda suggests fuel injection would have been standard on the B3 engine that is fitted to this model.

22-09-2003, 11:32 PM
Been like this for sometime. Nothing more or less has changed. Had the issue for like 12 months or so... Just adapted to the issue really. Once after 1 minute then all is fine.

Susan B
23-09-2003, 12:09 AM
> susan! what are you doing on the net....

Cracking the whip of course! :p :D

> Susan B these days with cars you need to be quite precise and even need to quote the Vin or engine number for some things. It is like a PC the more info you give the better the advice will be.

Oh, so all 1.3L auto, Mazda sedans aren't the same thing then? :p

[pre]Just kidding :D

23-09-2003, 12:16 AM
>> Oh, so all 1.3L auto, Mazda sedans aren't the same thing then?

yes if they are the same colour ... in fact all like-coloured cars are the same!!


23-09-2003, 12:33 AM
did some reading on the choke. Does sound familiar. Is it a expensive job? How does the dan thing look like and where approx is it?


23-09-2003, 07:02 AM
Hi, I don't suppose it could be that you are using 96 octane instead of 91?

23-09-2003, 11:07 AM
all depends on if its carby or fuel injected. if carby i would suspect choke (or whatever triggers the choke) or if fuel injection i would suspect idle up solonoid or stepper motor. best bet is to take it to a garage.

it could even be something as simple as a blocked air filter

Greg S
23-09-2003, 11:42 AM
Could be the choke (which'll probably be an auto one) But I'd more likely suspect ht leads or injectors. More detail on the exact symptoms as it stalls eg noise, quietly dies or shudders etc, would be useful. Timing could be an issue too.

23-09-2003, 11:59 AM
Insert the recovery disc in the cd drawer and reboot. If that doesn't work, take it to a garage.

Blue Druid
23-09-2003, 12:19 PM
If the car is parked facing uphill, it is possible that a vapour lock is forming at the carburetor end of the fuel line. This is why it will run fine once you have got it moving but give problems after standing pointing skywards for a while.

Probably a pinhole leak in the fuel line somewhere in the engine compartment (fire danger too!). The short term test is try parking facing downhill. If I am right, it will start perfectly; if I am wrong it will probably be just the same.

There are several flexible joints in the fuel line that can be cheaply replaced. Look for discolouration around them or a gummy deposit building up. Failing that, clean all the visible petrol line and look for seepage of petrol, especially around joints.

If petrol can get out, air can get in and cause your problem.

23-09-2003, 12:53 PM
I'm going to agree with almost everybody here and say the choke is most likely the prob if it's not fuel injected.

But, also since it's an auto it may pay to get the gearbox looked at. There could be a problem with the auto clutch slipping until it gets warmed up a bit.

Graham L
23-09-2003, 04:52 PM
Reflash the BIOS, and update all the drivers. (Especially the drivers :D).

23-09-2003, 06:15 PM
Roger that Graham. :D Hopefully we bring it to a garage sometime ... Other than that, it runs faultlessly. Has not had one major job since we bought it. :)

How are the post maintenance with auction cars generally?

23-09-2003, 06:27 PM
just like buying any 2nd hand car. lets just say its rare to find a 2nd hand car that dosn't need something fixing on it.

Poppa John
23-09-2003, 08:39 PM
Whats wrong with you lot??? Dead simple. Empty the ash tray, of course !!!!
Poppa John :D :D :D

Susan B
23-09-2003, 11:50 PM
>>> Oh, so all 1.3L auto, Mazda sedans aren't the same
>>> thing then?

> yes if they are the same colour ... in fact all
> like-coloured cars are the same!!

> ;)

Ha ha, nice try Jester, but I am still one up on you. ;-) :D

Duh! Do you think I am going to believe that my nice burgundy Terrano is the same as someone else's nice burgundy Hiace van? Go pull the other one! :p :D

24-09-2003, 12:09 AM
>Duh! Do you think I am going to believe that my nice burgundy Terrano is the same as someone else's nice burgundy Hiace van?

yeah your right, hiace vans look a whole lot nicer than terrano's ! ;-)

Susan B
24-09-2003, 10:43 AM
> >Duh! Do you think I am going to believe that my nice burgundy Terrano is the same as someone else's nice burgundy Hiace van?

> yeah your right, hiace vans look a whole lot nicer than terrano's ! ;-)

That's a bit harsh. Up to your old tricks again, tweak'e? :-(

I never said or meant to imply that one looked or was better than the other, just that they look different enough for any fool to see that they aren't the same vehicle even if they are the same colour.

Gets foot out of mouth and disappears under rock again.

24-09-2003, 10:58 AM
sorry tweak'es humour is a bit warped :_|

>Gets foot out of mouth and disappears under rock again.

and a horde of kids start kicking over the rocks to find susan :^O ]:) :p

Graham L
24-09-2003, 02:03 PM
Or the old standard: "push in the handbag hook".

24-09-2003, 08:56 PM
It won't be the gearbox. One of the gear changes in mine is a bit sticky but, whilst it creates friction on the turbine in the torque convertor, the engine flywheel seems to keep going normally so there is no tendancy to stall.

I think we can also rule out the summer/winter switch, because most manufacturers did away with summer/winter switches in the early 90s. I would also doubt the fuel pump, because if the relay is not working, then it would fail to build up enough fuel pressure to start the engine at all.

I would agree that it's most likely to be a carburation problem, or possibly the leads. Perhaps the distributor would be worth a look as well?

24-09-2003, 10:32 PM
Is this 323 a BG or BF or BH or BA model. Iam gessing it it either a BG or BH also is it injected or carburettered? I am gessing it is an electronic carburetter wich can give MUCH TRUBBLE. Is there any fast idle when it is first started cold? as the IAC valve {fast idle} also play up you can't get 2nd hand ones but you can modify them. if you say what it is & what is happing I might be able to help you . Rember I can't see or here what you can

24-09-2003, 10:33 PM
Ps I will not be back untill tomorrow night

27-09-2003, 05:32 PM
This is all the info under the hood. Some work is on the plan...

16 Valve
B3 1323 CC
600 B860P

27-09-2003, 05:36 PM
Hi Stick,

There is no fast idle. U start ignition - its a snap - no issues at all. Give it like 3 secs then u switch P to R to reverse the car down the drive way - sloped down. It then may start to shake and rattle 5 secs more it may lose ignition, engine stops, lights on dashboard and headlights still on.

Once u are down there, stick it into D gear. It goes fine, perhaps v v slow in a slight sloped up road. Give it 30secs and all is fine.

Now with the warmer weather, I seldom have got this issue in the last couple days.

27-09-2003, 07:50 PM
Suggest go to your local Library and see if they have a Haynes Repair Manual
for your car. Being fuel injection does an orange Diagnostic System lamp show on the dash when you turn the ignition on. If such a system is fitted afraid it's into the agent to run a Diagnostic System trouble code check (cost around $40). The system reads a myraid of things for the Engine Control Module to set the correct fuel/air ratio. Suggest live with the problem and at your next Service get a check done.

27-09-2003, 08:54 PM
Hi Frank

The car does not have a diagnostic lamp.

The ResinMaster
28-09-2003, 04:28 AM
Yes I am a mechanic (14 years) Some good thoughts posted, some not so good, The million dollar question is the vehicle fuel injected or not, (I may have missed this in the replies) chances are it is a choke problem, or cold start problem (If fuel injected) If it is injected there are a couple of other problems that it could be. Any way, you need to arrange for someone to come out and check the problem at your place so the problem can be seen first hand to diagnose it, from there the problem can be sorted. The biggest problem in the trade is for the mechanic to understand what you are saying, not what he thinks you are saying.
I know this doesn't help much, but otherwise it is just guessing, Let me know if the car is injected or carby and I will narrow down the possibilities for you


28-09-2003, 11:09 PM
The car is not injected.
Its not too much of a issue. Bit of a nuisance thats all, cos after the first turn (20sec) the car becomes all fine.

02-10-2003, 10:45 PM
Hi Nomad

Sorry I haven't been back earlier. Your car is a 1300cc with an electronic carb [Computer controlled]. Yes the japs made such a thing.
1st You said you have no fast idle. When the engine is started cold there is a wax pallet that operates the choke & cold fast idle. you have to make sure that the wax pallet is working properly to bring on the choke & fast idle. If this is working properly it may be that the fast idle screw needs adjusting.
2nd After the engine has warmed up a little, there it a duty solenoid that operates an electrical fast idle. This duty solenoid is not avalible new or 2nd hand but you can modify the system to give you the electrical idle up.
3rd That carb also has a fuel cut system which gives problems. there is a modification for fixing that. If you have someone to look at it I recommend that you leave it over night so they can do a cold start.


02-10-2003, 11:25 PM
Thanks for that Stick, appreciated.