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kahawai chaser
03-10-2016, 11:16 AM
Anyone recommend/applied a headlight cleaning kit? My car headlights quite cloudy, starting to bother me now. About 50 bucks from Super Cheap, but seems a non branded product. Seen vids, but involve multiple grit wet sanding, wiping/-spraying, then clear coating. Want' easy, simple minimal work kit.

E bay has cheap - medium priced products from Croatia, UK, and USA. But all kinds of kit types and brands ---Rain X, 3M, Mothers, Sylvania. Permatex, Turtle Wax, etc. Kind of like...and trust USA made products though..

plod
03-10-2016, 11:30 AM
Jiff, toothpaste, glass polish

kahawai chaser
03-10-2016, 11:40 AM
Jiff, toothpaste, glass polish

Did do that on another car a few years back (without Jiff), with a white sock...Worked long term. i'm sure I did it on current headlights but went dull again after week. Could be because of the bright HID bulbs though, dulling the lens quicker. But will do again with Jiff also. Thanks...

dugimodo
03-10-2016, 12:55 PM
Would Brasso work? seen it used on other things that weren't brass because it has a very fine grit in it

CliveM
03-10-2016, 12:56 PM
Jiff, toothpaste, glass polish

If very bad start with wet&dry paper.

John H
03-10-2016, 01:35 PM
I bought a kit a few years ago because the WOF guy at VTNZ said I needed to do the van lights. I can't remember what it cost, but it came with a drill attachment, a bottle of white goo, and a cloth of some kind. It worked really well - the lights (well, the outside plastic "lens") returned to almost new condition from being yellow and opaque. I used the stuff later prior to selling that van, and on our current camper van, and it seems like a good product. I bought it from Repco - I am away from home at present so I can't tell you the product name, only that it came in a red box and the business end of the drill attachment was a collection of sponges laid out in a dome shape (like those mushroom things your mother/grandmother/great grandmother used to darn socks...).

Terry Porritt
03-10-2016, 02:45 PM
Brasso as dugimodo says, on a buffing pad. It will take a long time though. Wet and dry, you'd have to use very very fine grades in the 1000's to get to optical quality, and progress slowly through the grades removing all trace scratches from the previous grade.

You will probably have to finish off with Brasso, or Jeweller's Rouge.

plod
03-10-2016, 02:49 PM
The glass polish I use is glint. a blue cream.

Greg
03-10-2016, 03:08 PM
I'd try Handy Andy first with a plastic scourer pad. If it doesn't help try Mantis scratch remover from an auto shop. Of course the clouding could on the interior of the headlight housing, in which case, apart from the hassle of removing the glass/perspex should be easier.

prefect
03-10-2016, 06:30 PM
When I was Sioux flight I should have stolen a bottle of perspex polish we used on the B47 (like the MASH helicopter)

feersumendjinn
04-10-2016, 07:08 PM
I use cut&polish compound with a woolen pad on a rotary buff at work (a dealership), and it works well, but sometimes the dirt and crazing is also on the inside.
Trying to take the lens off is not recommended, is usually clipped/glued/fused together, not serviceable (you'll break it), many dollars for new headlight.
There are people who'll come to your abode and do it for you
http://www.renewcar.co.nz/
In Orcland anyway.

feersumendjinn
04-10-2016, 07:37 PM
I use cut&polish compound with a woolen pad on a orbital buff at work.

Edit :-)

kahawai chaser
15-10-2016, 02:47 PM
As suggested by Plod Jiff (paste) worked. Best use of jiff so far. Along with $4 750 ml spray bottle of Jiff glass cleaner. Been over 10 days and lens still pretty clear. So looks pretty new lens...

kahawai chaser
15-10-2016, 03:06 PM
Also did son in laws - could see the yellowish tainted compound wiped off on the jiff paste mix rag. Horribly dull/yellow to near crystal clear lens...

bk T
15-10-2016, 04:11 PM
Tried with toothpaste with a clean cloth, about a week ago. Works pretty well on one side but not so well on the other. :(

May try Jiff, will Jiff cause scratches?

kahawai chaser
15-10-2016, 09:05 PM
Headlights already had fine scratches from a while back, using wet/dry paper. But I gave up - too time consuming - but great video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM) for permanent fix from Chris Fix - using Clear Coat.

But no scratch marks on the second car pair of headlight lens I cleaned. Though the Jif was watered down to a slurry from a paste on a white rag, and gently rubbed on - non sparingly (with water). Then immediately sprayed off with water - then rubbed again with Jif slurry and jif Easy Lift Glass Cleaner.

SurferJoe46
16-10-2016, 07:14 PM
I was buffing out a clear coat on a hood (NZ= bonnet) for a buddy and I gave his Ford F350 Diesel headlights a shot too.

I was using a 7 inch wool muff and a 3/4 HP two speed air buffer.

I started with Meguire's Step 1 Medium Cut Machine Buffing Compound. Pretty gritty, but it 'dies' as it cuts and gets finer and finer until it stops cutting at all.

Be sure to 'pick clean' the wheel between cutting compounds.

Then I went to Meguire's Step 9 Swirl Remover 2.0 which is also a very fine cutting agent. It too dies as it's used so in the end there are no marks at all. .

The final application of Meguire's Deep Crystal Step 3 Carnauba Wax for a clear coat.

I saw his truck a few days ago and after more than a year it still looks good.

Thanks for the brainreminder as I wanted to do my 1986 K5 Chevy Blazer taillights. I just converted them to LED and they are pretty if the lenses shine a bit more.

Youse guy got Mr. Clean? And Jif? And Handy Andy? Wow! We had them in the 1960s and it has gone from the stores here - they've been gone for a decade or more I think.

Jif, however, came back as peanut butter. So much for product crossover!

kahawai chaser
17-10-2016, 11:20 AM
I was buffing out a clear coat on a hood (NZ= bonnet) for a buddy and I gave his Ford F350 Diesel headlights a shot too.

I was using a 7 inch wool muff and a 3/4 HP two speed air buffer.

I started with Meguire's Step 1 Medium Cut Machine Buffing Compound. Pretty gritty, but it 'dies' as it cuts and gets finer and finer until it stops cutting at all.

Be sure to 'pick clean' the wheel between cutting compounds.

Then I went to Meguire's Step 9 Swirl Remover 2.0 which is also a very fine cutting agent. It too dies as it's used so in the end there are no marks at all. .

The final application of Meguire's Deep Crystal Step 3 Carnauba Wax for a clear coat.

I saw his truck a few days ago and after more than a year it still looks good.

Thanks for the brainreminder as I wanted to do my 1986 K5 Chevy Blazer taillights. I just converted them to LED and they are pretty if the lenses shine a bit more.

Youse guy got Mr. Clean? And Jif? And Handy Andy? Wow! We had them in the 1960s and it has gone from the stores here - they've been gone for a decade or more I think.

Jif, however, came back as peanut butter. So much for product crossover!

I too converted tail and reverse lights to LED's and added LED strips under the seats, and daisy chained them to a 12V spst toggle switch wired directly to "ignition on" 15 A fuses. I tried the "add a fuse circuits" (images here) (https://goo.gl/LvNZbZ) (including the mini's) - but bit too big and awkward to fit into the fuse recesses. Unless if I file/dremel away the surroundings.

l also wired LED strips under the dash to the "negative" switch at the junction box connectors/relays - so they light up when the doors are opened or when the dome light is on - either manually or auto via the ignition key and doors.

But Honda ECU/electrical circuit don't like the low amp LED brake lights - It shrieks a high pitched irritating alarm. Need to increase current I think by soldering in resistors (or bolting/wiring on high resistor "block style load resistors" (https://goo.gl/A7m3q9) to the bulb connectors.

Jif/Handy And/Ajax still around along with many other dearer and cheaper local and imported products...

SurferJoe46
17-10-2016, 02:02 PM
I just wired in a couple of conventional 2 tungsten bulbs in the same circuits and black painted the bulbs and tucked them into voids behind the new LED system. Seems to work by adding some load to it.

No shrieking then.

kahawai chaser
17-10-2016, 04:10 PM
Good idea. Thanks. Never thought of using the many filament bulbs/connectors I have. With T Taps/Scotch-locks be straight forward to install(sort off - (small 8 mm nuts tightly buried in the back of tail-light hosing) to erase the pesky alarm. Might get 1/4" Hex Flex"extension and mini Hex ratchet and mini socket driver bits.

But bit odd - How can the ECU (I assume it's that which shrieks) be notified of low amps from the brake bulb? No sensor - and presumably no signal wire from brake circuit to ECU. Don't think there are CEL/MIL codes for low amp - or non working brake bulbs - or any bulb for that matter.

SurferJoe46
18-10-2016, 06:20 AM
What I normally ask for in this situation is: "YMM please?" (Year- Make -Model of your vehicle... 'cause it makes a big difference).

The ECM may not be in the lighting system on more modern vehicles, but the BCM surely is!

That's: Body Control Module..... which is responsible for:
Interior HVAC
Entertainment System Identification code
Interior lighting
Electric seat(s) position and heat
Mirror position
Gas cap presence alarm (will set a CEL or SES failure code call to ECM too)
Lock/unlock doors
Keyfob Identification System (KIS) on more uppity cars for now, but coming to your neighborhood soon!
Driver ID (see above)
Window positions while driving (reports to insurance company - for why I am awaiting clarification)
Turn signals
G forces in turning, braking and values are captured/retained for 15 minutes before any airbag deployment
Seat belts locked and extended for all passengers detection interface - obviously!
Running/clearance lights (RCL) - also if parking lights "call" by operator Y/N? after-dark-detection if vehicle is NOT parked
VSS readings (vehicle speed sensor interface w-ECM)
BOO switch status (Brake On/Off? This is one of the biggies for insurance companies)
Parking brake application status
DRL or DDL system defeat
Backup camera
Anti-theft alarm or interlock
GPS
Cellphone interfaces VOX via Bluetooth. .. or Not?
IOT

...... other things as they become added to vehicle systems.

Some of this info is what insurance companies want dearly, but they are still not allowed access to it.....yet in the US, but watch California invoke it sooner than later.... then the rest of the US will try, state-by-state until it's totally CONUS!

Then Sweden and Germany...... and then the UK...... and by Royal Edict, so will Australia. ... and then Youse Guys!

So, as you can see, there's lot of exciting things to fail, cease functioning and a plethora of data the you may or may not know about or even like.

The biggie is the black box using the cellphone or wifi interface to report to insurance companies and the vehicle registration status to your lending institutions to keep your policies current and disable the vehicle if the authorities want to arrest or incarcerate you or the vehicle, making it easier for the tow companies to find the car when you go too far in arrears for any of the above infractions.

So, there's more to computer systems than meets the eye and if the insurance companiesget ahold of permission to download your driving habits and style, then many of us will be in serious trouble, especially in the event of an accident.

They'll have infinite info if you tried to stop before the accident occurred and if you tried evasive actions to minimize the insurance company's losses and liability - words in fine print in your insurance policy coverage boilerplate.

Not wearing seat belt? No coverage.
Speeding before accident? No coverage.
Registration lapsed? No coverage.
Turn signals not used? No coverage.
Alcohol on your breatth? No coverage and a free trip to Devil's Island or (gasp!) Australia!

The screeching noise you hear when there's an imbalance in the lighting current is there to let you know that sum tings wong.

It tried to put HP LED'S in the headlights on a 2000 Chevy Astro Van and the BCM throws a tantrum.... so there's some sophisticated interfaces even in that old of a vintage vehicle too.

HTH

kahawai chaser
18-10-2016, 09:43 AM
OK understand now. But if insurance companies want code data - that means the car manufacture's would be under pressure to release their proprietary diagnostic systems and coding parameters. Plus also to get the coding all correct, sensors, components etc, to sync properly to avoid discrepancies and liability, say in court. The Gene Hackman movie Class Action come to my mind. Insurance would not payout. But a low probability occurrence risk manufacturing fault was discovered. The car company knew it, but costly to retool.

I know Car manufacture's won't release data, since I use Torque Pro (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en) (for pulling codes, live data streams, data storage etc) - great app - allows to create your own scripts to make your own live stream data. But parameter ID's are required. One example is to create transmission temp's - but the developer can't get them from say Honda to code it in. They won't give them out. Members in USA Ford 150/250 forums are struggling to make a transmission data capture stream.

I reckon too data is been captured on ECU's that can't be easily acceded by the average DIY'r (maybe at least in the litigious USA supplied/made cars) with universal scan tools. Guess you know of Mode 6 code?- supposedly secret captured ECU data I believe. Plus in hex format to convert for legibility or a expensive proprietary scan tool required. Lot going under the hood - or console. Saving data for their insurance for car manufacture's that is.

SurferJoe46
18-10-2016, 04:34 PM
Yeah - I've got Torque-Pro too - and I find it a little less 'intelligent' to use than my good ol' Snap-On Brick. I've upped it to CAN plus the older format of OBD-II.

In the US we have the FOI Act whereby we can demand information that may be proprietary, from the manufacturers. We may not always get it, but at least the demand was made for the record.

Anyway - I digress......

We have a local situation whereby a driver from Montana was driving in Washington State and was killed by a wrong-way driver.

The ECM ratted him out as he didn't have a rear seatbelt on his passenger and the insurance company just walked out on him and his wife is now minus a husband and no accidental death insurance nor UM or Uninsured Motorist payout will be coming either.

Several states have gone to No-Fault policies that exclude ANY claim - in either direction* - if someone in the vehicle was in commission of failing to minimize the insurer's losses.

* The injured party cannot claim an insurance payout from the driver's at fault insurance company - assuming it wasn't also his company - and his survivors - if there are any - cannot sue his insurance company to pay out either.