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View Full Version : Annoying intermittent buzzing and slight pause when playing games.



ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 02:12 PM
Hi all, when I play games on my PC (this doesn't always happen) the sound can buzz for less than a second and pause at the same time.
It only started happening recently. It never happened before. I have updated Realtek drivers. I am using on-board sound. Any suggestions on what to do?
Thanks.

Chilling_Silence
19-05-2013, 02:13 PM
My money is on the HDD going to sleep or waking up or something, and causing your system to "hang".

Update your motherboard / chipset / SATA drivers and see how you go.

icow
19-05-2013, 04:04 PM
Have you installed any new hardware recently? The soundcard may not be shielded and could be receiving interference from other components, things as simple as changing the orientation of a psu can cause this.

Agent_24
19-05-2013, 04:43 PM
My money is on the HDD going to sleep or waking up or something, and causing your system to "hang".

x2

May also be the HDD is going faulty, and the pause is caused by it taking longer than usual to read the data.

Does the sound continue to play normally over the buzzing or is the buzz the sound 'hanging' and looping?

ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 05:53 PM
No hardware changes have happened. Sound does stop while the buzz happens. There is no looping.
Using on board sound. It mainly happens on Need For Speed: Hot Pursuit (2010). I don't think it matters what drive I'm using.
I have games on both my 500GB and 1TB.

What do you guys think?

Chilling_Silence
19-05-2013, 06:15 PM
Aaaaah there ya go, my money is the secondary HDD is going to sleep then waking up or something along those lines.

In Win7, click Start, type "power" and go to "Power Options". Next to your preferred plan, click on "Change Plan Settings" then "Change Advanced Power Settings".

Finally, go down under Hard Drive and change it so it doesn't turn your HDD off. See if that makes a difference.

ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 06:36 PM
Sorry it was already on "never turn off". Thanks all the same.
I'm going to update the Bios some time. Any special way of doing that?
This BIOS version (3701) : http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8P67M_PRO/#support_Download_30

Chilling_Silence
19-05-2013, 07:04 PM
OK then do the drivers that I suggested. Alternatively take out the second HDD temporarily and see if it still continues.

ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 07:06 PM
But the game I'm playing at the mo is half-life 2 which is on my 500GB. The saves are also on the 500GB. Would it make any difference if I took out my 1TB?

Agent_24
19-05-2013, 07:13 PM
Just disconnect the one you aren't using, it will be the only one likely to be turning itself off from sitting there doing nothing.

ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 07:21 PM
Update: Was playing hl2 and just juttered but no buzz. Sometimes there is a buzz - sometimes not.
Will try disconnecting the 1TB.

ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 07:34 PM
Could it be the PSU? It may not be sending out the right voltages. As far as I know temps have been fine.
I think it is a Raidmax one :P

ChazTheGeek
19-05-2013, 08:23 PM
Nothing I can understand in event viewer either. Just backing up my system at the mo, I'll probably flash the BIOS after that.

ChazTheGeek
20-05-2013, 05:14 PM
Flashed the BIOS. Supposed to have been successful. Can't boot into windows 7 though. Loading screen freezes then quickly flashes up a BSOD then restarts. Should I remove the CMOS battery? Any recommendations?

Agent_24
20-05-2013, 05:27 PM
Flashed the BIOS. Supposed to have been successful. Can't boot into windows 7 though. Loading screen freezes then quickly flashes up a BSOD then restarts. Should I remove the CMOS battery? Any recommendations?

Are you using SATA hard drives? It sounds like you probably installed Windows with them in IDE mode. The BIOS update may have changed the default setting to enable AHCI mode.

If that is the case, you won't have the AHCI drivers installed, therefore it causes a BSOD.

Try turning AHCI mode off in BIOS if it's turned on.

ChazTheGeek
20-05-2013, 05:31 PM
Yeah using all SATA drives. I can these 3 modes: AHCI, IDE, RAID.
Before I flashed the BIOS it used to flash up a RAID config screen before I booted into windows. So I'm wondering if it was
RAID mode...

Will give your suggestion a go though.

Agent_24
20-05-2013, 06:21 PM
Try RAID then, or whatever you had it on before. It's common to get BSOD issues if you change HDD controller modes after installation.

Chilling_Silence
21-05-2013, 10:17 AM
Yeah it'll only take 5 minutes to go through and try all three of them ;)
Then, don't forget to update the drivers for your chipset etc...

You want to have Windows installed ideally with AHCI, performance is generally better than IDE emulation.

ChazTheGeek
21-05-2013, 05:06 PM
Ok Windows is all good now. Thanks. Buzzing still occurs sometimes. But at least I know I can get an Ivy Bridge CPU now. :)
Do you think the PSU (Raimax:lol:) could be causing problems?

Chilling_Silence
21-05-2013, 05:13 PM
Nope, that's what I'd put at the lower end of the list.

Did you upgrade your chipset / SATA drivers then, as well, from the manufacturers website?

Have you tried running it with just one HDD at a time? Even just for one evening to see what happens...

Agent_24
21-05-2013, 05:44 PM
Do you think the PSU (Raimax:lol:) could be causing problems?

I would say being a Raidmax PSU it's a piece of junk regardless of it causing the problem or not. The last Raidmax PSU I ever saw had smoke pouring out of it.

ChazTheGeek
21-05-2013, 05:47 PM
I would say being a Raidmax PSU it's a piece of junk regardless of it causing the problem or not. The last Raidmax PSU I ever saw had smoke pouring out of it.

Lol

Have downloaded the drivers. Need to put them on a flash drive and install them now. I'll let you know when I've done it.

ChazTheGeek
22-05-2013, 07:03 PM
Chipset and SATA is up to date. Still need to try that HDD thing. No problems so far.

SolMiester
23-05-2013, 02:37 PM
Hitching is usually a memory issue where the game will freeze momentarily, I would check the memory setting to ensure they match the specs.

ChazTheGeek
23-05-2013, 05:07 PM
How do you do that?

SolMiester
24-05-2013, 02:24 PM
How do you do that?

Type the RAM product key into goggle to get correct timings, then go into your BIOS and set manually, sometimes the BIOS doesnt read them properly and set incorrect timing causing momentary hitching\freezing etc.

ChazTheGeek
24-05-2013, 05:40 PM
Ok will have a look. Thanks mate.

ChazTheGeek
24-05-2013, 06:10 PM
Just had a look at CPUID and my RAM is running at 680MHz...weird.
Timing was 9-9-9-24
1T
1.5V

ChazTheGeek
24-05-2013, 07:24 PM
I set the DRAM to 1600MHz in the BIOS. Now it is running at 860MHz. Not sure what is going on...
Still 9-9-9-24
1T changed to 2T

Agent_24
24-05-2013, 08:07 PM
It's DDR so the effective clock rate (1600Mhz) is double the real clock rate (800Mhz)

In your case it must have a slight overclock at 860Mhz. Or the software is reading it wrong.

icow
24-05-2013, 08:07 PM
I set the DRAM to 1600MHz in the BIOS. Now it is running at 860MHz. Not sure what is going on...
Still 9-9-9-24
1T changed to 2T

Was this using cpuz?

ChazTheGeek
24-05-2013, 09:31 PM
Was this using cpuz?

Yes it was.

Buzzing got worse now...half-life 2 locks up quite a bit and sometimes repeats the sound over and over then stops repeating.
Could it be a RAM error??
Could be that I put the RAM to 1600MHz...

Agent_24
24-05-2013, 11:57 PM
Could be that I put the RAM to 1600MHz...

Is it supposed to be run that fast?

SolMiester
25-05-2013, 11:44 AM
It DDR3 Vengence, its supposed to be 1600, however not sure why it shows other speeds in CPUID, did you set the timings in BIOS as they are shown for the 1600 speeds, especially the CL timings. That fact you have changed the setting and they have exasperated the issue appears to suggest we are on the right track..Is the BIOS up to date, the memory is on the recommended list eh? I havent had any trouble with that memory and use it myself, was it okay before, are you clocking your cpu?

ChazTheGeek
25-05-2013, 07:10 PM
The BIOS is fully up to date. Memory was working fine before. No CPU overclocking.
I lowered the RAM speed to 1333MHz.

ChazTheGeek
25-05-2013, 08:55 PM
Could the RAM be faulty?

Chilling_Silence
25-05-2013, 10:24 PM
My money says no. Run memtest86 and test it.

icow
25-05-2013, 10:44 PM
Yes it was.

Buzzing got worse now...half-life 2 locks up quite a bit and sometimes repeats the sound over and over then stops repeating.
Could it be a RAM error??
Could be that I put the RAM to 1600MHz...

DDR standards for double data rate. The actual speed shown in CPU-Z will be around half (speeds fluctuate) of what the ram was advertised to be ie 1333mhz DDR3 ram will read at around 666-667mhz.

ChazTheGeek
26-05-2013, 01:46 PM
My money says no. Run memtest86 and test it.

Ok I'll see what your money says.

ChazTheGeek
26-05-2013, 07:37 PM
Okay over 130 errors so far...gulp

Agent_24
26-05-2013, 07:41 PM
Okay over 130 errors so far...gulp

You only need to get one to know there's a problem.

ChazTheGeek
26-05-2013, 08:30 PM
I have lifetime warranty on the RAM. Should I RMA it?

icow
26-05-2013, 09:07 PM
Yes, considering there is clearly something wrong with it. Unless it's a slot on the motherboard which has gone faulty?

Chilling_Silence
26-05-2013, 09:40 PM
Okay over 130 errors so far...gulp

I stand corrected!

Agent_24
26-05-2013, 09:51 PM
Could be RAM fault, motherboard fault, CPU fault (since it contains the memory controller) or even a PSU fault.

If you have spares of any of those items you can swap first, you should, before you start to RMA things.

ChazTheGeek
27-05-2013, 12:48 PM
The RAM has a heap of errors. I think that is saying something. 186 now. I have no other DDR3 RAM available. Or CPU and Motherboard.
I could try a PSU though.

SolMiester
27-05-2013, 01:56 PM
Can you try different slot.....just ensure you have correct settings in the BIOS before testing, if they are wrong, it will show errors.

ChazTheGeek
27-05-2013, 06:03 PM
Will do

ChazTheGeek
27-05-2013, 06:44 PM
And I find if I reboot the PC it can fix the problem temporarily.

icow
27-05-2013, 06:55 PM
I'm not familiar with how data is stored within the ram but I'd guess that there are certain parts which are faulty (in your case) much like bad sectors or blocks in an HDD. Once the computer tries to store data in the problematic errors you start to experience problems.

Agent_24
27-05-2013, 07:02 PM
Try your other PSU?

ChazTheGeek
28-05-2013, 05:57 PM
Ok done that. Didn't fix the problem. Will try swopping RAM into different spots.
I also find sometimes if I close an application with the buzzing problem and starting it again can also fix it temporarily.
Must be emptying out the RAM or something like that.

ChazTheGeek
28-05-2013, 08:31 PM
Changed the RAM into different slots (I have two sticks). No change, still locked up and buzzed. Then I took one stick out. So I'm now running on 4GB. Haven't had any trouble...yet.

ChazTheGeek
29-05-2013, 05:38 PM
Ok still buzzing. Any other idea 's on what I could do before I RMA the RAM?

Agent_24
29-05-2013, 05:52 PM
Refer post #51

Probably easier to test just in case, before RMAing anything

ChazTheGeek
29-05-2013, 06:10 PM
Done that already mate. Changed the PSU. Made no difference whatsoever. Thanks all the same.

ChazTheGeek
29-05-2013, 06:18 PM
Anything else I could do?

Agent_24
29-05-2013, 06:33 PM
Done that already mate. Changed the PSU. Made no difference whatsoever. Thanks all the same.

Ah, you didn't seem to have mentioned that you tried that, or I am missing it somehow.

Well, if you have no other hardware to swap and you are certain your RAM is set correctly with timings and voltage and frequency, and swapping slots makes no difference then I guess it is time to RMA and see what happens.

ChazTheGeek
29-05-2013, 06:46 PM
Ah, you didn't seem to have mentioned that you tried that, or I am missing it somehow.

Well, if you have no other hardware to swap and you are certain your RAM is set correctly with timings and voltage and frequency, and swapping slots makes no difference then I guess it is time to RMA and see what happens.

Post 53 and 54 :)

phlexish
30-05-2013, 11:21 PM
I seem to be having a similar issue. I also use Vengeance RAM. However I have only noticed it when accessing my new WD Caviar Blue. I have had it about 6 weeks and it has only just started happening. As it is my dump drive for uTorrent I noticed it two days ago when uTorrent kept crashing/not loading all torrents. I will do the suggested things above and report back. Keep us posted ChazTheGeek.

EDIT: If anyone else has any other suggestions based on the above, please tell.

ChazTheGeek
21-06-2013, 05:02 PM
Hi all, I received my RMA replacement RAM yesterday. The buzzing still isn't fixed...
Could a bad/faulty GPU cause the issue?

ChazTheGeek
21-06-2013, 05:50 PM
Or a motherboard issue?
Are there any tools for checking MB's and GPU's to see whether they're faulty or not?

Chilling_Silence
21-06-2013, 08:03 PM
Have you tried gaming without the second HDD yet?

ChazTheGeek
22-06-2013, 10:56 AM
:D no. I'll give that a go. It could be that my 80GB is slowly giving up. It is getting on now.
I have Windows 7 on that as well.

ChazTheGeek
23-06-2013, 10:34 AM
I have also noticed the pausing and buzzing when watching Youtube videos.

ChazTheGeek
30-06-2013, 06:53 PM
I unplugged my 500GB HDD and noticed no buzzing. It does have a few Issues. Crystal Disk informs me that it's health is: Caution.

Speedy Gonzales
30-06-2013, 07:06 PM
I would see if theres a firmware update for the 500 GB. Whats the brand/model of the 500 GB?

Chilling_Silence
30-06-2013, 09:19 PM
Its not that, it's probably just going to sleep. Adjust your power settings to make sure it's not going to sleep.

ChazTheGeek
01-07-2013, 12:43 PM
Power settings are on max. HDD's are on all the time.

Chilling_Silence
01-07-2013, 12:53 PM
Wonder if its the HDD itself. It's not one of the "WD Green" ones or something is it?
Run Speccy for us and paste your system details? piriform.com/speccy

Agent_24
01-07-2013, 02:22 PM
If SMART is reporting the HDD health as anything less than OK, it may well be the problem. If it's a WD Green it probably has highly aggressive head parking (default is about 8 seconds idle time!)

The health warning might be due to this and a resulting high number of head load\unload cycles. I would use their WDIDLE3 utility to change the time-out value to maximum.

ChazTheGeek
01-07-2013, 05:34 PM
It's a Seagate Barracuda 500GB RMA replacement.

My 1000GB Caviar Blue is fine.

SolMiester
02-07-2013, 11:26 AM
Perhaps you have some noisy chokes on the GPU? GPU whine is not usual!

ChazTheGeek
02-07-2013, 07:09 PM
As far as I know my GPU is fine. I'm not quite sure what you mean there.

Agent_24
02-07-2013, 07:55 PM
Can you get any more details about why your HDD health is showing as warning? It might give you some clue. Biggest give-away is that the buzzing stops when you unplug it.

ChazTheGeek
03-07-2013, 08:33 AM
When I unplug it the buzzing stops. When I plug it back in the buzzing comes back.
I'm going to replace it very soon anyway.

Chilling_Silence
03-07-2013, 10:11 AM
10 bonus points for me for guessing it in 1, some 76 posts ago? :D

Agent_24
03-07-2013, 11:40 AM
Would love to see why SMART is reporting the drive as unhealthy.

ChazTheGeek
04-07-2013, 07:11 PM
10 bonus points for me for guessing it in 1, some 76 posts ago? :D

Hahaha :). A least I found that the RAM was bad as well. :)
Replaced the drive and had no issues. Thanks.

dugimodo
04-07-2013, 09:02 PM
Perhaps you have some noisy chokes on the GPU? GPU whine is not usual!

I think not in this case but nearly suggested something similar at one point, I had a XFX GTX260 once that had a high pitched whine that altered pitch as you moved the camera around in game. I figured it was some component under stress but it never played up apart from making the noise and it wasn't too annoying.

ChazTheGeek
05-07-2013, 05:11 PM
My problem was that my game would stop and stutter and the sound would buzz (like when you put your fingers on a active speaker jack).
On a side note, I bought an SSD and I want to put everything I have on my 80GB Boot drive on the SSD. Then make my SSD the C:\ drive.
Thanks again guys :)

ChazTheGeek
06-07-2013, 05:32 PM
On a side note, I have an SSD and I want to shift everything off my boot drive onto that so I'll be able to boot off the SSD.
Any ideas on how to do it?

Chilling_Silence
06-07-2013, 08:18 PM
If you have a SSD, do a fresh install. Its painful but its definitely for the best.

dugimodo
06-07-2013, 11:47 PM
+1 for Chills suggestion but if you must then;

Step one - check your BIOS to see if you are in AHCI mode - if not google how to change to AHCI - it involves a registry change and a driver install or your system won't boot after the change. Not strictly necessary but for best SSD performance you should use this mode. Even if you reinstall windows from scratch do this first.

next depending on size you may need to reduce the amount on C:, even if you can fit it all clearing the excess will speed up the rest of the process.
Uninstall everything you don't need/ want to keep of your C: drive, backup/move any data files, pics, etc onto another drive or external storage if you can and remove them from C: (leave them on C: if you have to)
Run CCleaner and remove whatever you can, probably not a bad Idea to do a full virus scan also.

Install both hard drives, clone the old one onto the new one using cloning software such as Active@ (my 1st choice) or Acronis or Ghost etc, Active@ has a trial period, Acronis is often available free from the HDD manufacturers website in a cutdown version.
Shut down and disconnect the old drive, reboot and see if it works. If not try again using a different cloning program, if there's an option to make a boot disk and use that for cloning it's the best option (it's tricky to reliably clone windows from within itself while running but does work most times).

Once up and running, tweak your system for an SSD. There may be a utility with it or on the website to do it for you or you can google it and do it yourself. The main one is to make sure defrag is disabled for the SSd as it does no good and adds wear to the drive.
Also usually drive indexing is disabled and the page file can be moved to a data drive (some people disagree with this but I personally recommend it). I think there may be a couple other settings also (a fresh install does most of them by default when an SSD is detected).

Leave your old drive disconnected with windows on it for a few days until you are happy everything is sorted out just in case you need to go back or start over, once you are happy you could wipe it and use it as a storage drive or something.

ChazTheGeek
07-07-2013, 03:56 PM
Thanks guys. I ended up downloading the free version of EaseUS Todo backup and just doing a drive clone to my SSD. Pretty painless and easy.
Works great and the system is quite speedy.

SolMiester
08-07-2013, 05:28 PM
I think not in this case but nearly suggested something similar at one point, I had a XFX GTX260 once that had a high pitched whine that altered pitch as you moved the camera around in game. I figured it was some component under stress but it never played up apart from making the noise and it wasn't too annoying.

Didnt bother reading the whole thread, my fault....

ChazTheGeek
08-07-2013, 06:46 PM
Oh well. :)